Unusual Gold, Ivory and Jadeite Brooch

This brooch has been the subject of ongoing debate. It is certainly 19thc...probably between 1860 and 1880....it is a pair of teeth, surrounded by a figure made of at least 20ct gold with Chinese hallmarks and set with a lovely piece of jadeite. In the 19th century gold was not abundant in China and was only used by the wealthiest families. In all of my research I have been unable to find a similar Chinese gold ornament.

[click on images to enlarge photos by:RidgewoodEntrust]

( 4.7cm wide 3.3cm high app. 1 7/8" wide 1 1/4" high )

In the second half of the 19thc several events joined to create a popular taste for exotica in the world of jewelry. There were ongoing archaeological expeditions in Greece, Italy and Egypt which were widely publicized in newspapers and magazines. Large collections of ancient treasure began to appear in museums in Rome, Paris and London. In 1851 in London the Great Exhibition of the Industry of all Nations took place.

The low cost of admission made the exhibits available to a broad public. Interest in Eastern styles and culture grew influencing the world of fashion and personal ornament. Materials new to the Western world came into use. Real scarab beetles, small birds and vulture claws were set in precious metals and dangled from women's ears and men's watch chains. The fad peaked in 1876 when Queen Victoria became the Empress of India and tiger claw jewelry came into vogue. Women wore tiger claw earrings set in gold and brooches set with two claws in gold....similar in many ways to this Chinese brooch with teeth.

Brooches are not a traditional Chinese form so it seems possible that this may be an earlier ornament adapted for the western market.

The teeth have proven difficult to identify. The jagged edges appear to be natural...there are no signs that they have been carved or altered, they have some staining and natural patina. It has been suggested that they are the teeth of a fish not a mammal. More research needed. The last debate is about the gold figure, some people see a frog...in my opinion the tentacles suggest an insect...still searching images... researching antique jewelry is definitely not an exact science…

Hand carved stone beads

Eight years ago this amazing string of carved stone beads appeared in my life to begin my exploration of the world of Chinese personal ornaments...since I had always loved beads it was surprising to find something I had never seen before...and because the first collection that I ever assembled was cameos, I understood something about carving...but not this kind of workmanship...

[click on images to enlarge     photos by: RidgewoodEntrust]

There are 42 of the small beads which are 16mm, carved with abstract fish and pierced, with at least 20 holes per bead at a depth of 6-10mm per hole; the large round bead is 38mm carved with abstract animals and the shou symbol for long life and 28 holes to 6mm; the tube bead is 38mm by 15mm with piercing 4mm deep. The beads have been mounted on sterling wire.

The rarity and quality of these beads suggest that they were originally part of a Mandarin court necklace. The stones are too soft to be jade and appear to be an odd shade of bowenite or an agate. But I am far from an expert on stones and would welcome any and all opinions from other collectors.

Silver Chinese Bracelets

A pair of bracelets was the traditional betrothal gift for many women in China ...worn one on each wrist... this pair is solid silver, handmade and marked with Chinese ideograms.

[click on images to enlarge]

The bracelets are decorated with one motif repeated three times ...two dragons chasing the sun... the dragons represent fertility or male power and the sun represents heaven ...and this particular sun also appears to have a pearl or the moon at the center which would represent feminine power and potentiality... symbolic language that captures the hopes all people have when they marry.

The fine detail and a sculptural quality to the dragons and the sun make these favorites of mine.

Jade Necklace

Fifteen years ago when this necklace first appeared in my life there was no Chinese collection or even the thought of one...my fixation then was Mexican silver......

[click on images to enlarge]

but these were unusual beads and somehow they never went into the sale pile....so they seem the right place to start...three color jade...translucent white and yellow beads set off by three interlocking circlets of celadon handcarved from a single piece of stone...and all smooth as silk with the feel of beads the have been worn and touched for many years...

17" (42.5cm) long plus clasp, center bead 3/4" (2cm wide), each ring 5/8" (17mm wide)

Chinese Jewelry Collection

The history of the human race is recorded in its' jewelry...so part of the excitement for me is discovering where an ornament fits in the historic landscape...what it meant to the original owners...

[click on images to enlarge]

These early 20thc figures of a Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) Emperor and Empress came to me by accident...I stumbled across them while looking for something quite different...



Their presence and dignity is more compelling than any of the portraits that I have seen of members of the Mandarin court and I felt they belonged with the collection.