[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

What makes a piece rare? This is original 19th century Chinese knotting… and an unusual combination of amethyst and white jade…and the white Hetian jade plaque features the He-He twins carved in an early 19th century style … and the two sets of ‘Devil’s Work’ jade each have four interesting rings … the only 4 ring sets that I have ever owned…

After 15 years of handling Chinese ornaments, I still get a thrill touching something this beautiful!

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

So, this bracelet was a surprise when we found it… just three huge pieces of tourmaline in a simple silver setting that reminds me of the work of the native North American Navaho silver work.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

In the digital age, anyone can go online on multiple web sites and find thousands of new jade bangles for sale at low prices. But the new bangles are all made recently with diamond bits and dremals or dental drills. This bangle was hand carved in the early 19th century using the classical ‘treadle’ techniques.

The antique bangle excites my imagination… the story of a culture dedicated to the pursuit of beauty.

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

But this pair of heavy (200 g.) high grade silver bracelets tells another story…the figures on the bracelets are unlike anything we see on pieces made for the Western markets.

China trade routes throughout Asia and these figures remind me of images I have seen in Thailand (formally known as Siam) art.

Marked Made in China, these bracelets are a reminder that the Chinese silversmith traded throughout the world.

BTW… you can see that Bob is finally back, which means that we will be posting more often and announcing a new ‘Sales Gallery’ very soon.  I am excited!

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

“Yellow was the color associated with the Emperor ”… Chinese Art, Welch.

I am thinking about ways to restring the remaining beads. They are rare porcelain and hollow and yellow – you can see from the fragments how thin the porcelain is… hence the term "eggshell".

These are the most amazing beads that I have ever owned …

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

During the Qing Dynasty only members of the Imperial family were entitled to use pearls, coral and lapis. The coral came from Italy and the lapis came from Afghanistan, which made them both very rare in China.

The carving of these 38 lapis beads is typical of 18th century treadle work and has the Shou carving on two sides of each bead… so they were carved after they arrived in China and must have been used in a court necklace for a member of the Imperial family.

We understand how the lapis and coral traveled to China because the trade routes are well documented …but how the Imperial beads traveled to the US is still a mystery.

And of course …after I found these beads I had to buy the lapis earrings so that the beads wouldn’t feel lonely!

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

“The Chinese have venerated and worn jade for over 5,000 years” … The History of Beads, Dubin.

Here are two jade necklaces but totally different in style… the Barrel beads are carved with the Shou on 2 sides and a dragon on the other two sides …the round beads are carved with Shou on 4 sides.

First look at the color of the beads … the round beads are all perfectly matched in color … the barrel beads are not – there are some variations in color.

Next the round jade beads are translucent – you can see through them – a translucent jade stone is more rare = more valuable.

Third: the quality of the carving – when you compare the barrel beads and the round beads you will see that the round beads are carved with more precision – classical style.

Both of the necklaces are jade, both are valuable… but the classical, translucent jade will always be more valuable.

I would like to thank the Northumberland News for the nice article they did on the upcoming Artisan Tour ….

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

“Formerly it was believed that amethyst protected drinkers from becoming drunk…worn as an amulet, amethyst was used as a charm against poisons" …Precious and Semiprecious Stones, Bauer and Bouska.

But purple has always been one of my favorite colors and you can imagine how exited I was to find a string of 108 amethyst beads carved with the Shou symbol.

The carving again suggests that these are probably 18th century Mandarin Court beads …

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

My gemologist tells me that these beads were carved with a diamond drill which means they were probably carved post 1950… about 100 years after the carved jade beads in our next blog.

But if you love green and have a special occasion where you want everyone’s eyes on you… these beads are for you.

Please visit my new bead page www.susandods.com/beads …with its link to the tour web site… containing maps and more information about the other artists.

Over the next month leading up to the tour, I will be posting more articles about Chinese beads. Hopefully, I will be able to answer some of your questions in person!

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

Lately, there seem to be a number of them being offered on the market… mostly through eBay and the quality and prices vary wildly. Some are obvious fakes that have been thrown together to take advantage of the interest in the market, some are reconstructions from several different necklaces … and there is much debate about what is ‘original’ vs. ‘restored’… and given the age of the delicate silk thread that was used, necklaces may have been restrung during the Qing Dynasty or modified by an owner as they rose in rank at the court. It is a difficult evaluation to make.

This necklace is a ‘Partial’ … a term we use to denote that some of the beads are missing but that all of the major elements are original to the necklace. At some point in time, the silk thread must have broken and 12 of the original 108 beads were lost. The necklace was restrung with the remaining 96 beads distributed evenly with the head beads…

The workmanship and quality of these exquisite enameled beads, lead me to believe that there is nothing ‘partial’ about its beauty!

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

So it was really exciting to find this enamel dragon bracelet -same design and size (six panels) with dragons facing the sun – but totally different construction – this one is entirely filigree and and translucent with bright colors on the dragons and sun… and very rare.

It is the only one that I have seen in ten years of collecting …interesting early mark: CHINA PURE SILVER with lots of patina.

Many years ago I polished every piece of silver but soon over the years I have come to believer that the patina is an import part of the story… part of the history.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

The French call it "Ronde-bosse" and have used the technique since the 14th century.

These are three examples that I have picked up over the years – each circa 1890-1910 … they all appear to be custom made pieces. The mirror is the most unusual; repoussé sea creatures -  lobster, frog, turtle etc. with a jade handle. The bookends have a lotus at the center with two Shou symbols … and the box was painted with subtle shades and tones.

This is not mass production… this is an unknown Chinese artist enjoying his craft.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

High grade silver (tests 900) and carved teak …with a clasp at the center front …one has two silver dragons …the other four silver coy fish. It is not unusual to find Chinese bamboo bracelets but theses are the only Chinese teak bracelets that I have seen.

Many of the Chinese bracelets that we see were produced by a workshop that included a silversmith, an enameller and a carver.

The pieces made by #23 always suggest the work of an artist – looking for new forms of expression… jewelry as an art form.

[click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt]

The unique feature of this bracelet is… all of the panels are surrounded by silver curled to look like ribbons… I cannot remember ever seeing another silversmith use this technique…

Very few individual artists have emerged form my study of Chinese jewelry… this bracelet is an example of my favorite designer…. his mark is #23SG and his designs are always interesting and often unique.

These are examples of his work which have been featured previously on the blog…

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

It is likely early 19th century, although the mark is no longer readable… it tests with a very high silver content… and is set with a white – yellow undertone jade stone approximately 22mm x 12mm. The inside diameter of the bangle is approx. 2 1/4".

The small size and quality suggest to me that it was not made for export… but as a gift for someone very special…

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

If you enjoy his photos on PrivateCollection, you might want to visit his gallery…

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

The handle uses a piece of carved jade that probably was a hair pin originally … supported on the other side by silver engraved with leaves and flowers.

We have seen photos of 19th century hair ornaments that contain 60 – 200 jade buttons… and clever Chinese silversmith’s have found a way to redesign hair ornaments for the Western market.

A classic… and still beautiful after 100 years.

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

and it was the subject of one of my very first posts… The Dragon and Pearl Set. Over the years I have owned many wedding bracelets but that first pair was always my favorite… until now…

A matched pair of silver, enamel and coral ‘Dragon and Pearl’ wedding bangles appeared … the only pair of this type that I have ever seen. They are the kind of gift that only a wealthy Mandarin could afford …about 150 years ago.

When I look at them, I like to imagine the smile of that bride when she first saw her treasure!

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

This rare set came with a story… an American soldier who served in Burma brought this back as a gift for his wife. It is still in the original box and in almost perfect condition.

Over the years I have owned a few of these spider sets – fine delicate workmanship… very fragile… silver wire as fine as thread… woven into webs of the classic octagon…  but this is the only set that I have seen with the blue enameled spiders.

So we believe that the discovery of the spider set is an auspicious omen for all of us in the Year of the Rabbit.

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

Modeled after an Asian citrus fruit… a fingered citron – that resembles the hand position of the Buddha in mediation… the fruit is called Buddha’s Hand.

This necklace also gives me the opportunity to share some more information about cherry amber… one of my ‘bead pals’ sent me a link to a website that has great information on amber … Thanks Nick (mrbrokenpieces on eBay) …we’re always grateful for your help!

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

The ‘book chain” was a popular necklace in England and North America during the Victorian era – used to hold a locket… which adds to my feeling this necklace is also 19th century.

The cicada is one of the oldest symbols in Chinese art… they sometimes appear on Neolithic pieces… "the cicada symbolized immortality…a cicada made of jade was laid in the mouth of the deceased" Eberhard, Dictionary of Chinese Symbols.

Rare, beautiful… but also powerful …according to Eberhard the number five is one of the most important numbers in Chinese mysticism …I still have a lot to learn!

Happy Lunar New Year!!! Gung Hay Fat Choy!

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

But when you turn the bracelet the 8 Immortals appear…

This early 20th century bracelet tells the Ming Dynasty Story The Eight Immortals Cross the Sea - using their magical powers. Each Immortal finds a different sea creature to carry them across the ocean… a crab, turtle, eel etc. … all in repoussé silver.

The work of the Chinese silversmiths still have the power to surprise me!

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

I want to thank all of our customers for their support over the last four years… you have made this a very special adventure!! Hopefully the gallery will return in the future… time permitting.

This beautifully carved 19th century jade Bi looked so much like a Christmas wreath… I thought it was perfect way to combine East and West for a holiday greeting and the spirit of the season.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS … Susan and Bob

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

Custom made silver setting stamped with the Sycee mark… a carved face and surrounded by dragons… unlike any other Chinese bracelet that I had ever seen …and I have seen thousands of Chinese bracelets. I also talked about the ‘stone head’ but at the time I was so engrossed in the mystery of the Sycee mark and the story behind it, that I never looked into what type of ‘stone’ it was.

After the blog was published, my husband Bob was speaking with James Callahan the well-known Asian expert from Skinner Inc. (some of you will recognize him from the Antiques Roadshow) …he was looking at several photographs  of our pieces and he stopped at the bracelet  and said “that looks like a Bezoar.”

We asked ourselves: “What is a bezoar?” That question lead to volumes of information… often arcane. A Bezoar is in fact a gall stone… used over many centuries in many different cultures as a medicine or a potent … it even appears in the Harry Potter series as an ingredient in one of  his magical elixirs. But one of its more unusual ‘uses’ was:

"Many persons of status accepted potential poisoning as a chronic threat and armed themselves for battle against it. Because wine and other drinks were often laced with arsenic, the most popular poison of the period, many magical devices were employed to negate its deleterious effects before it was consumed. The most common and effective of these amulets was the bezoar stone…” (reference)

So, here we have a 19^th century Chinese sterling silver bracelet with dragons… exquisite workmanship… set with a bezoar… with a carved human face…custom made for whom and why? …certainly someone wealthy and powerful… did they believe in its powers?

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

[ click on images to enlarge .... photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

The metal beads test silver… the clasp is marked silver with Chinese hallmarks… but what fascinated me about the beads was their clarity and sparkle … totally different from the beads that are usually called ‘Peking Glass’.

So I started to search for more of this bright blue glass… found a pair of earrings marked CHINA SILVER …found a second necklace and and a large pile of beads. I wanted to know what made these beads so bright and clear. The answer came from Peter Francis Jr., the late and great, bead expert. His  book; Asia’s Maritime Bead Trade, 300B.C. to the Present is available on Amazon.

“lead is an important clue when considering Chinese beads. It was rarely used in glass made in the West. Lead does several things to glass, including making it more brilliant and easier to cut, just like Swarovski crystal.”

While Francis’ book is a ‘must read’ for anyone who is interested in Chinese beads or beads in general… it is full of other information… as a ‘Westerner’… it was once again interesting to learn that the Chinese had been making glass for thousands of years using techniques that we usually associate with being ‘European or Western’…

In our ‘internet age’ we think of the world as shrinking and time is measured in milliseconds… but it seems that beads have always been part of their own ‘small world’ …

Visit PrivateCollection’s  PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

My favorite examples of pomander jewelry are these two pair of early 20th century silver mesh earrings… the vase shaped earrings actually have small lids attached with a chain…

The second pair will look a bit odd to westerners eyes…they are made in the shape of a Shang Dynasty (1384-1111BC) vessel. The first archeological excavation of the  Shang period tombs took place about the time that these earrings were made… c. 1920-30.

Large hollow carved beads and jade pendants are also common examples of scent holders.

These are yet another example of the ingenuity and subtly of Chinese adornments… which makes collecting Chinese jewelry so interesting and fun.

[click on images to enlarge         photos by: RidgewoodEntrust]

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

But it is the setting that I really love… an example of granulation work which sometimes appears in Chinese pieces. Granulation is a metalwork process.. a way of joining small metal balls or granules to a base… the base can be a sheet of metal, or granule to granule or granule to wire …the joining process is call ‘fusion welding’ …it works best with gold and silver.

Granulation is one of the earliest known metalwork techniques; used in many different countries…some sources say that granule work first appeared in Mesopotamia c, 3000 BC (5000 years ago) but other sources suggest other dates and sites…let’s just say it is very  old.  Jewelry Concepts and Technology, Untracht, 1982, Doubleday and Company

It is marked ‘CHINA SILVER’ with a backwards ‘N’ which I find charming!

Best of all… I can wear this bracelet… it actually fits me! I have such a small wrist that most of the gorgeous big bracelets that I write about… can only sit there and stare at me!

[click on images to enlarge.... photos by: RidgewoodEntrust]

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos.