Neither of the these enamel techniques have their origins in China. Enamel painting was introduced probably from the French in the early 18th century where it was adapted with such skill that the form is often referred to as ‘Canton Enamel’ because …Chinese artisans excel in it.

[ click on images to enlarge …. photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

The other technique’s origin (with its French name – Cloisonné (cloisons in French), was originally from Byzantium or the Islamic world and the technique reached China in the 13-14th centuries.  There are a number of good articles on the internet about both techniques… Wikipedia and the Metropolitan museum have a great deal of history and information.

“Chinese cloisonné is sometimes confused with Canton enamel, a similar type of enamel work that is painted on freehand and does not utilize partitions to hold the colors separate.” What I thought would be helpful to show how a cloisonné bead was made and compare it to the relatively free form of the Canton Enamel technique.

Steps in Cloisonné Process

[ click on images to enlarge …. photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

Cantonese Enamel Beads

These necklaces were created with the link chain already in place. Even without the metal forms found in cloisonné, Chinese artisans are remarkable in creating beautiful symmetries and repeating patterns, It is a wonderful mix of freeform design and discipline… not to mention the vivid color and presence of each bead.

I found a lovely antique Chinese broach with a beautiful 19th century jadeite carving …butterflies and flowers and set in a intricate silver setting. The pin was missing, clasp broken… but it was an ideal piece to use for a necklace.

[ click on images to enlarge …. photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

Silver solder can’t be used near a gemstone because the heat could crack the stone and other soldering techniques are not dependable. So, in the past, converting a broach to a pendant posed a big challenge, a great deal of time and it created quite a dilemma; risk cracking the beautiful jade or possibly damaging the wonderful intricate silver setting beyond repair by removing the stone from it.

Today, laser technology solves that problem and my wonderful jeweller Ralph Schroetter owns one… so it was possible to fuse the silver without risking damage. We mounted two silver loops allowing me to add the jade beads and a silver clasp.

Preserving a beautiful example of Chinese workmanship… a combination of old and new techniques comes together in harmony for a change.

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.

This is a very unique and beautiful Chinese Wedding Necklace. It took me a while to figure out what the 30 symbols hanging on this beautiful silver vermeil wedding necklace were …

[ click on images to enlarge …. photos by: RP (Bob) Birt ]

The shape seemed so familiar…I checked with Patricia Welch’s book Chinese Art … "An eggplant is a fertility symbol as it is both fast growing and has numerous seeds … because cucumbers, gourds, melons and pumpkins grow on vines and have large numbers of seeds, they are all associated with fertility… the Chinese artist could utilize pictures of seeds and nuts to convey the wish for many children"

Bob showed me a photo his friend Tracy Lamb had just shot for one of her client’s brochures … Eggplant …it had to be! Perhaps the artist took a bit of liberty as to which end of the fruit the stem was on?

The style of the workmanship was also familiar. The necklace is marked: MADE IN CHINA SILVER but it also has a mark that has appeared on a number of pieces in the collection… NO. 23. There has been some discussion that the mark is for an Assay Office (which existed from approximately 1890-1937 in China) but we have also seen the mark used for pieces that do not test silver like the bracelet used in these black and white photos that Bob did for his portfolio.

NO. 23 seems to have a style and quality associated with it that is not dependant on materials…

Never the less, this is a wonderful Chinese Wedding Necklace made even more charming by its artistic quirks and beautiful symbolism… there was a very lucky bride!

Visit PrivateCollection’s PictureBook to see additional photos… many in larger formats.